89 cherokee stalling after warmed up
03-05-2011, 02:35 AM
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89 cherokee stalling after warmed up
89 jeep Cherokee limited, AT, 4.0L, tow pkg. About 5-10 minutes after she is running, I put her into reverse and she stalls/dies. Starts right up in P or N. Then at stop signs/lights, she will stall/die, but start right up. Under acceleration, she will stall for almost a full second and then kick back on. I have replaced the Fuel filter, Tps,Cps,Map sensor, plugs, cap,rotor,gas cap, and I jumped the fuel pump relay. The Iac and plug wires are newer.(less than 3 months old) Fuel issue maybe? Return hose or vent tube blockage? Would Seafoam help?
03-05-2011, 04:10 AM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
have you trouble shooted this problem in a repair manual yethttp://www.filestube.com/537d2723635...ual-84-93.html
Last edited by freegdr; 03-05-2011 at 04:19 AM.
03-05-2011, 04:25 PM
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Ya, and because I have replaced everything it could be, I'm kinda stumped. Maybe an ignition switch and coil pack is what I need. I've heard heavy keychains can ruin an old ignition switch.
03-09-2011, 05:42 AM
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Ok, so I think that it's now looking at either 1 of 2 things. 1)Engine coolant temp sensor. 2)Knock sensor. The coolant temp sensor makes a lot of sense to me because when it fails, it sends a faulty signal to the ECM and dumps fuel into the engine. The O2 sensor reacts by leaning out the engine. The ECM thinks that the coolant is at -40, and makes adjustments to run. I'll take it to my mechanic and have him replace both sensors. Wish me luck!!! ,-D
10-06-2014, 03:50 PM
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After spending over $2000. on my son's 1993 Grand Cherokee for a stalling problem. Being milked by garages who said they could fix it, including dealerships, but didn't, and buying parts on our own that did nothing to fix the problem. Tried every suggestion on most of the forums to no avail as everyone is guessing and no one can give a for sure fix answer. we took it to the CRUSHER. I have a nice "88" Cherokee Pioneer and it started the same crap about 6 months ago. I now have over a grand in trying to fix it as I really enjoyed my Pioneer but now it's heading to the CRUSHER. Once this problem raises it's ugly head in your Jeep, my advise is don't waste your money on the damn thing, Crush it and save yourself the grief and expense it's going to cost you or someone you may sell it to. The answer to these problems with jeeps is to not buy them til Chrysler learns to make a better product or teaches it's Tech's how to cure the problems other than replacing one part after another till they get lucky and it works for awhile just to start up again at a later date.
10-06-2014, 04:08 PM
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Well, Welcome to the forum, sunshine! Some of us here like the 87-90 Renix Jeeps better than the one you crushed! 
Right on top in the link in my signature is Cruisers tips. Pretty sure you want to start with 1 through 5....(or substitute #27 for #2)
Right on top in the link in my signature is Cruisers tips. Pretty sure you want to start with 1 through 5....(or substitute #27 for #2)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-06-2014 at 04:11 PM.
10-06-2014, 04:14 PM
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
CPS is a first "go to" for random stalling>>
Anyone with an 87 to 90 Renix Jeep has two or three minutes to see that their CPS is putting out at least .35 AC volts. I don't mean to come off rude, but if you can't connect a meter and turn the key, we may not be much help.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. (you need contact with those little pins while it cranks)
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2V, or “auto range”.
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
Btw, Chrysler took over in 90-91 I think......(was All Makes Combined)
Anyone with an 87 to 90 Renix Jeep has two or three minutes to see that their CPS is putting out at least .35 AC volts. I don't mean to come off rude, but if you can't connect a meter and turn the key, we may not be much help.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. (you need contact with those little pins while it cranks)
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2V, or “auto range”.
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
Btw, Chrysler took over in 90-91 I think......(was All Makes Combined)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-06-2014 at 04:29 PM.
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10-06-2014, 08:56 PM
#8
Beach Bum
Think the reply is a match for this question.
My Jeep is a 1988 Cherokee Pioneer white 4 door w/ 4.0L inline 6, 5 speed 4x4, stock throughout. Problem is Stalling, started about 6 months ago. Parts replaced, Battery, Alt, Distributor and wires, Coil and base that it sits in. Computer, Air control valve, TPS, new "o" rings on injectors, dash pulled and all contacts cleaned. Starts right up and runs like a new Jeep but when it reaches operating temp and your coming to a stop sign or light it stalls, (engine dies). Will start right back up but then the next time you stop or push in clutch to downshift for a turn it again dies. Will keep doing this until it's parked. Once cooled down, starts right up like a new one. There is a ceramic thing mounted on the driver side, inside fender in engine bay, it has an orange wire from the harness going in one end and a orange wire connection coming out the other end. That thing gets so damn hot you can't leave your fingers on it. Anyone know what that item is? what's it for? Should it get that hot? Any help would be gratefully appreciated. At 71 years of age my aggravation level has been tested to it's end. Love the little Cherokee so would like to save it. 
CPS is a first "go to" for random stalling>>
Anyone with an 87 to 90 Renix Jeep has two or three minutes to see that their CPS is putting out at least .35 AC volts. I don't mean to come off rude, but if you can't connect a meter and turn the key, we may not be much help.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. (you need contact with those little pins while it cranks)
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2V, or “auto range”.
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
Btw, Chrysler took over in 90-91 I think......(was All Makes Combined)
Anyone with an 87 to 90 Renix Jeep has two or three minutes to see that their CPS is putting out at least .35 AC volts. I don't mean to come off rude, but if you can't connect a meter and turn the key, we may not be much help.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. (you need contact with those little pins while it cranks)
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2V, or “auto range”.
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
Btw, Chrysler took over in 90-91 I think......(was All Makes Combined)
10-06-2014, 10:00 PM
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Year: 90,84
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Got it Steve, Good catch! Anyway I found that in chat and directed him to "here) w/ a new thread....
That ceramic thing is a resistor, only there to cut the voltage to the fuel pump a bit because people complained it was too noisy. (C/O Cruiser). Power out the rear goes straight to the fuel pump, it can be bypassed.
That ceramic thing is a resistor, only there to cut the voltage to the fuel pump a bit because people complained it was too noisy. (C/O Cruiser). Power out the rear goes straight to the fuel pump, it can be bypassed.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-06-2014 at 10:04 PM.
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