89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

So Here is the deal:

I bought an amazing 1989 Jeep Wagoneer only 45,000 miles(cherokeer style) 3 hours away from where I live 14 days ago. Since I got it; I removed the valve cover and put a new gasket on it. Replaced the spark plugs, Got a beast 880 CCA Battery, Fuel Pressure Regulator, 0 Gauge on all the battery/Alternator Cables. Tomorrow if FedEx comes on it's scheduled time of delivery, I will be getting all new (Orange Colored Fuel Injectors Bosch 3 Series 19 Pounds Pressure 4 nozzle design type), New EGR Valve with gasket, New TPS Sensor FROM ROCK AUTO! LOL i LOVE that site. Well anyways, it was driving just peachy before I decided to sea foam it. After I performed an oil change, spark plugs, and the new gasket on the valve I sea foamed it. It was ran for about 15 minutes and parked than immediately sea foamed and it was done with 1/2 can through the vacuum booster line, the remaining half was equally distributed in the oil and gas tank. That tank of gas has already been cycled thru and I have already changed my oil again. Also I have some BG44k coming in about 3 days, hope it removes the ridiculous amount of carbon buildup I saw when I took my throttle body off inside the intake manifold and injector ports. All my grounds have been cleaned, all my vacuum have been upgraded and sealed, MAP sensor is good, IAC was good and tested. Fuel filter was also installed. And I hear the fuel pump turn on when key is turned onto accessory mode. All my wiring seems to be good it has a newer alternator, and stays at 14 volts at all times, and the starter relay has been cleaned as well as all the other electrical components under the hood. I hope it is something simple like my TPS sensor or my EGR gasket leaking. But would those cause my symptoms? If not is there something I am forgetting? Also if a MINUTE and I mean VERY SMALL leak of oil coming from the oil filter post is confirmed, but would that pose performance issues? It is so small it does not even leave a leak on the pavement, but noticeable if you inspect underneath. Also I got a HIGH FLOW catalytic converter and grind off that old rusty flange, ran about 6 inches of pipe slapped a brand new muffler, than a resignator from the 2012 jeep liberty I bought my wife < HAHA>. It is super quiet! I will post pics within a week after I am done with this BRAINTEASER of a problem. At-least I am getting all new parts!! It will give me the confidence when I have to drive long distances. But since I got it, it has been a little BAS***D , I got a flat tire on I4 30 minutes north of Orlando and was like "just my luck", but figured oh well I will change it with this spare and take it easy. Little did I know that the lug nuts were torqued down so much they were just an impossibility to get off. Long story short had to get 4 lugs air chiseled and 4 new studs resulting in 350$ in expenses. Better than the 500$ tow the tow-truck driver tried nailing me with. But on the brighter side it has also gotten new tint all the way around, new headliner, HID headlights, HID fog-lights, and I will be getting a 3 row radiator soon. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

Also if I get this newer muffler in a few months,"link posted below" would it pose performance + Or -?

DFlintstone

Sorry, I've seen this before, you will need to sell it cheap, Soon PM me for my shipping address.

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

Ok I made the adjustment.

DFlintstone

OK, well, maybe start with it's ticker, only takes 3 minutes. C/O Criiser;

Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
　　
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
　
Revised 11-29-2011


Also, Are those Airtex injectors from Rockauto?

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

Well the CPS is all good. It was brand new when I bought it and the volts are perfect. The injectors I am getting tomorrow are as follows. The previous injectors on it were 5 original and 1 that was a little longer and obviously from another engine besides a renix.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280858678916...9#ht_500wt_949

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

My problems are as follows: Does not want to go passed 3,000 RPMS, Idle is close to 1,000 RPMS. It backfires sometimes, and will stall if I do not let it warm up all the way.

DFlintstone

Just that another guy is currently having issues/returning a set of Airtex from there...No data here on the ford ones...flow looks right.

So you did actually see 1/2 a volt AC from the cps. I guess new ones do test low. Patient needs a hart-beat!

Did you adjust your new TPS?

And Cruiser's Renix TPS adjustment.


RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned.
It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector
of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post.
If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be
necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding.
I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body.
This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission
TPS has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A,B, and C.
Wire "A" is positive.
Wire "B" is ground.
Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors..
Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage.
Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your
OUTPUT voltage.
Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For
example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If
you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-
wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the
manual transmission equipped vehicles--FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters
A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module.
Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your
REFERENCE voltage.
Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT
voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage.
For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage.
If you can't, replace the TPS and start over.
So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and
the other side feeds the TCU. If you have TRANSMISSION issues check the four-wire
connector side of the TPS. If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of
the TPS.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is
stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

I am getting the new TPS tommorow from rock auto. Also the injectors were researched before I made the purchase and worked with previous enthusiasts. Do you think maybe it could be the egr since the gasket maybe leaking? I tried to upload a photo of my old injectors that were installed from the PO.

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

Now when I install my new TPS is it mandatory to adjust it? Or does it come adjusted to the specs needed to perform without problems?

DFlintstone

Ya' know I juess in your case you might have caught it but,...I myself and a number of others have had trouble with the gang of wires coming off the injector harness and going down to the lower sensors. Mine were routed screwy and shorting on the heat shield, underneath where I couldn't see. (months of fun ). Others have had issues with others down there like the 02 sensor wires melting....

DFlintstone

Gotta adjust it per cruisers instructions. AFTER the TB is clean.

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

Man.. Yes I may need schematics on what injector goes into what harness. I should have labeled them..... Do you know where I could obtain these schematics?

89JeepWagoneer_4.0_ReNiX

I just took 2 hours last night cleaned the whole butterfly and all the ports where the map sensor/IAC plugs into. It is ready to rock n roll.

DFlintstone

Wow! Second time in a week I get to post this, (came up with it myself)


Golf anyone?
LITTLE BALL, LONG GREEN, TEE YOUR WHITE BALL...................................


Light Blue, Light Green, , Tan, Yellow, White, then Black are the injector wire color codes.

If you know the pair in the middle is right, you only need to check one on each end.