broken hub bolt
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
get that bolt out (turn it out or drill it out) and see if you still have threads. If not, then it might be time to get a new timken
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
the hub bearing is fine is the crappy thing..
anyone know where I can get a new bolt. A little bird tells me that the dealership/ parts store wont have them...
#5
You could probably heat it, add PB Blaster and vice grips and work it out. You just have to be really careful not to damage the seal on the bearing. At 100k, I'd suggest doing both bearings IMO. But if the funds don't allow it then keep them. You will probably have to hit the junkyard for those bolts or take one of the good ones and try a hardware store in your area to try to match it as close as possible.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by Lyon
You could probably heat it, add PB Blaster and vice grips and work it out. You just have to be really careful not to damage the seal on the bearing. At 100k, I'd suggest doing both bearings IMO. But if the funds don't allow it then keep them. You will probably have to hit the junkyard for those bolts or take one of the good ones and try a hardware store in your area to try to match it as close as possible.
Last edited by Jor2010dan; 09-08-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by Lyon
The new hub comes with studs. Just not the mounting bolts. Good luck man!
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Year: 1992
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this is what happens
Hey thanks tony, Sorry this is my daily driver so I need stuff same day. I'd rather support forum members, but i need to buy another car first. I'll be getting some door seals and other things from ya soon. Any forum discounts??
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If it were me with those miles and where you already have the hub off of the Jeep I'd replace it with a new one, or even do both sides.
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If it were me with those miles and where you already have the hub off of the Jeep I'd replace it with a new one, or even do both sides.
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#13
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Year: 1997
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In general heat works well but I would NOT heat metal that close to a sealed wheel bearing. You can potentially burn up the grease and have no easy way to get it back in.
Wheel studs aren't a big deal to remove and install. Why don't you want to do them again?
Bolts - I go to the pick n pull whenever I need them but not many other options besides the stealership (who will likely have to order one).
Wheel studs aren't a big deal to remove and install. Why don't you want to do them again?
Bolts - I go to the pick n pull whenever I need them but not many other options besides the stealership (who will likely have to order one).
#14
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by Evil Drew M
In general heat works well but I would NOT heat metal that close to a sealed wheel bearing. You can potentially burn up the grease and have no easy way to get it back in.
Yea, got a new hub
Wheel studs aren't a big deal to remove and install. Why don't you want to do them again
My studs are longer and. 002 larger knurl, they suck going in but they weren't bad
Bolts - I go to the pick n pull whenever I need them but not many other options besides the stealership (who will likely have to order one)
Ace hardware baby. They are m12 1.75 90's. Ace only sold m12 1.75 80's in the 10.9 grade, so I got them. It still engaged fully though .
Yea, got a new hub
Wheel studs aren't a big deal to remove and install. Why don't you want to do them again
My studs are longer and. 002 larger knurl, they suck going in but they weren't bad
Bolts - I go to the pick n pull whenever I need them but not many other options besides the stealership (who will likely have to order one)
Ace hardware baby. They are m12 1.75 90's. Ace only sold m12 1.75 80's in the 10.9 grade, so I got them. It still engaged fully though .