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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
he cut the o'ring/spacer clip off the fuel line without asking
Bummer. Yea, two O rings with a spacer you can't buy anywhere, between them. Yea, up to nearly 40# pressure there on the pressure side, no place to mess around. The return from the regulator on the other hand is much less pressure. Just clamps on that line might do...maybe make sure you have fire insurance though!
Could I jump the relay pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump powers on? Or should I poke around with my test light and multimeter. Also does anyone know where the fuel pump grounds at?
Could I jump the relay pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump powers on? Or should I poke around with my test light and multimeter. Also does anyone know where the fuel pump grounds at?
Thanks Cruiser! I just had a thought, the fuel gauge is wired in the same harness as the pump. The fuel gauge works so that means that there should be enough power going to the pump right or am I just really confused haha.
Zak, just cut that friggen messed up wire to the rear of the resistor, strip the end, and jump the pump to positive! (exactly as I said). If the pump then runs it's not it's ground, the relay, or the pump!
Of course if the pump runs, stop and make sure the fuel lines are OK.
Here soon I'm going to make a short YouTube on cheap, easy, practical soldered connectors, with shrink tubing. In a pinch I'd use a wire nut like the hundreds in your house, before I'd use those crimp deals. Ugly, but good enough for your frig or microwave! OxyGuard or dielectric grease helps for dirty, wet auto applications.
I did mean to jump just the cut wire to battery positive, just for testing. That could settle that in seconds. If it didn't run, then I'd go check power and ground at the tank. (I mean just the wire to the pump, not connected to anything else. If it's jumped connected, power would "back-feed" into the system.) I may have done that with no ill affect, but it's just not a good idea. If one really wanted to do that, do it with the ignition on.
I don't mind having the resistor, with the idea my pump may last longer not running quite so hard. It's fine ether way.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-01-2016 at 05:15 PM.
Well I read your old post wrong and connected the two words on the ballast resistor without trying to connect 12 volts to the wire but when I tried to start it the fuel pump still wouldn't turn on. So now I have to disconnect the wires and try it again. I'm going to have to trace the wire baking because I've forgotten Wichita one was the front and which was the rear wire.
I've forgotten Wichita one was the front and which was the rear wire.
Disconnected , the rear wire to the pump will never show voltage. Cranking, the start relay pipes power there, to the resistor, but without looking I'm not sure which end. (after starting the fuel pump relay powers the front.
09-26-2016, 05:02 PM
but when I tried to start it the fuel pump still wouldn't turn on. So now I have to disconnect the wires and try it again. I'm going to have to trace the wire baking because I've forgotten Wichita one was the front and which was the rear wire.
