Pre 97 Window Lockout Bypass?
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Pre 97 Window Lockout Bypass?
I have been searching all day to no avail. I took apart my door panel and gained access to the master switch and its harnesses. I followed the instructions for the 97+ XJ bypass, and connected the tan and yellow wire on the same plug but with no success. I can use the master switch to roll down every window, but none work on their own. Anybody know how to bypass this lock switch on pre 97, specifically a 93?
It's getting dark and I'm getting worried I won't finish this for tomorrow...
It's getting dark and I'm getting worried I won't finish this for tomorrow...
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Year: 2004
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Engine: 4.7L V8
It might not apply in your case, but the harness runs under the carpet from the drivers side to the pass. side. and is prone to getting funky at the connector under there. It may just need cleaning and applying some grease on the connector. I read this on another thread before but can't find it now. Sorry.
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
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I am still stumped with this. Like I said, exactly the same problem in the write up. I can work all the windows from the drivers switch, but not any individual switches. I connected the yellow and tan wires that were side by side on the connector for the lockout switch, but no luck. Has anyone wired around their window lock on the OLDER cherokees?
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Okay so I took out my test light and checked the two wires where the lockout switch plugs into. They are both hot. I checked them down at the kick panel and they are still both hot with the ignition on. If I connect them both together and have a complete circuit, is that bypassing the switch? I did just that and it made no difference, still can only roll up the windows from the driver door.
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Glad I'm not the only one. We need somebody to chime in that's had this problem. I think I can figure it out if someone can explain the wiring to me. If both wires connecting the switch are hot, when you flip the switch to unlock the windows, does it break the circuit? When I spliced the two wires (tan and yellow) together and nothing happened, as this made both wires hot all the time. Are both wires supposed to be hot?
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I asked a mechanic at my local jeep dealership about my problem years ago and he said the switch was never the cause, always a wire break in the door to jamb tube or just behind the drivers kick panel. I had stressed wires that I fixed and the windows were faster afterward, but still only from the drivers switch.
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Hmmm. Looks like tomorrow I will be stripping back all the wiring to see if I can find the culprit. I will also check under the driver carpet as well as the door tube you suggested, I didn't even think of that. I'll let you know if I find anything
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It might not apply in your case, but the harness runs under the carpet from the drivers side to the pass. side. and is prone to getting funky at the connector under there. It may just need cleaning and applying some grease on the connector. I read this on another thread before but can't find it now. Sorry.
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
I checked the wires at the door tube and they looked fine, as well as the wires underneath the carpet on the floorboard and didn't see any splits in the wires.
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