5 sets of bad lifters or what
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
5 sets of bad lifters or what
I have been having so much trouble out of lifters lately I have talked to several mechanics all of them are stumped so I figured i would post on here hopefully someone will have a answer.
for some reason when I replace my lifters in my jeep cherokee 2.5l 4 cyl every time i reach 150 miles after it starts missing and i need to change the lifters because every one except a couple will be stuck up not down witch has caused the bottoms of the lifters to wear concave and has bent all 8 pushrods at one point this has happened 4 times so far one of the push rods it bent into a s shape the first time it happened
so far i have put a in a new cam and head and 5 sets of lifters
it got so bad one day that it acually knocked a whole in the bottom of one of the lifters and the lifters that get stuck are never in the same place for instance the worst ones in the bunch first time was number 1 exhaust i changed lifters then it was number 4 exhaust so i changed lifters again then it was number 2 intake then after that it was number 1 intake then number 2 exhaust
any ideas
for some reason when I replace my lifters in my jeep cherokee 2.5l 4 cyl every time i reach 150 miles after it starts missing and i need to change the lifters because every one except a couple will be stuck up not down witch has caused the bottoms of the lifters to wear concave and has bent all 8 pushrods at one point this has happened 4 times so far one of the push rods it bent into a s shape the first time it happened
so far i have put a in a new cam and head and 5 sets of lifters
it got so bad one day that it acually knocked a whole in the bottom of one of the lifters and the lifters that get stuck are never in the same place for instance the worst ones in the bunch first time was number 1 exhaust i changed lifters then it was number 4 exhaust so i changed lifters again then it was number 2 intake then after that it was number 1 intake then number 2 exhaust
any ideas
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
Whats your lift and duration
Is it stock aftermarket did ya get the right size.
Not trying to sound like a *****
But the cam is picky on setup.
One thing wrong and s shapes push rods
Is it stock aftermarket did ya get the right size.
Not trying to sound like a *****
But the cam is picky on setup.
One thing wrong and s shapes push rods
#3
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Have you been priming them before install?
Also, with this type of cam/lifters they have to be changed at the same time.
New cam=new lifters
New lifers=new cam
Have you broke it in, or just start driving (20 mins at 2500rpm, IIRC)
Also, with this type of cam/lifters they have to be changed at the same time.
New cam=new lifters
New lifers=new cam
Have you broke it in, or just start driving (20 mins at 2500rpm, IIRC)
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
also the cam i put in it is stock
oh i did break it in but for only 15 min according to the book
Last edited by jamesebolton; 12-24-2010 at 02:09 PM. Reason: forgot to include info
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#8
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oh sorry no i havent been priming them the parts place i got them at said if i primed them they would pump up to high and bend the push rods witch they do anyway
#9
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
hydraulic lifters = filled with oil
solid lifters = not filled with oil
Are we talking about what used to be a 100% new camshaft not something out of a boneyard or "reground".
solid lifters = not filled with oil
Are we talking about what used to be a 100% new camshaft not something out of a boneyard or "reground".
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My guess is you wiped the cam the first go around and kept replacing the lifters. You need a new cam and lifters. And with all the lifter debris in the engine hopfully the engine will be ok.
Once the concave wear was on the lifter the cam was no good. I would say improper break-in. Did you use EOS or any other cam break-in additive?
Once the concave wear was on the lifter the cam was no good. I would say improper break-in. Did you use EOS or any other cam break-in additive?
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Here are a few things you should do:
1. Make sure you're using a new cam and new lifters made in the USA.
2. Check every lifter to make sure it has a crown on the face that touches the cam lobe. You can do this by holding that face against the side of another lifter: you should be able to notice a slight bulge on the face of the lifter.
3. The cam or cam & lifter set should come with some kind of container of break-in lube that is a paste. If not, get a container of Isky Rev Lube (http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?m...oducts_id=3964) and use that liberally on the cam lobes. Also apply it to the lifters, but only to the face, not the sides!
4. Set the lifter preload according to the method specified in the Haynes manual. If you don't have that, I can provide some of the instructions.
5. Fill the crankcase with an oil that has high zinc content, such as Shell Rotella T, Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, or something else. If the oil says ILSAC GF-4 certified, don't use it. If it says API SM, it MIGHT be OK. Newer than SM is not OK.
6. Beg, borrow, or steal a 16 oz. bottle of Engine Oil Supplement (EOS), old part number 1052367, new part number 88862586, and add that to the crankcase. A little overfilled is OK.
7. Pre-lube the engine. Buy a tool or make one from a junkyard distributor.
8. Fire it up and rev to 2500rpm immediately. Hold it there for a minimum of 25 minutes.
9. Change the oil and filter, again using a high-zinc oil, but you can skip the EOS now. Keep using a high-zinc oil for the first few oil changes.
1. Make sure you're using a new cam and new lifters made in the USA.
2. Check every lifter to make sure it has a crown on the face that touches the cam lobe. You can do this by holding that face against the side of another lifter: you should be able to notice a slight bulge on the face of the lifter.
3. The cam or cam & lifter set should come with some kind of container of break-in lube that is a paste. If not, get a container of Isky Rev Lube (http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?m...oducts_id=3964) and use that liberally on the cam lobes. Also apply it to the lifters, but only to the face, not the sides!
4. Set the lifter preload according to the method specified in the Haynes manual. If you don't have that, I can provide some of the instructions.
5. Fill the crankcase with an oil that has high zinc content, such as Shell Rotella T, Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, or something else. If the oil says ILSAC GF-4 certified, don't use it. If it says API SM, it MIGHT be OK. Newer than SM is not OK.
6. Beg, borrow, or steal a 16 oz. bottle of Engine Oil Supplement (EOS), old part number 1052367, new part number 88862586, and add that to the crankcase. A little overfilled is OK.
7. Pre-lube the engine. Buy a tool or make one from a junkyard distributor.
8. Fire it up and rev to 2500rpm immediately. Hold it there for a minimum of 25 minutes.
9. Change the oil and filter, again using a high-zinc oil, but you can skip the EOS now. Keep using a high-zinc oil for the first few oil changes.
#13
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
I will get a new cam when i can get back to town need to go to town anyway to get a few parts for the camanchee it has been acting up on my mother today think the idol control motor is shot it wont idol unless it is worm and it is flooding.
it is coming a snow storm right now so no telling when i will be able to get back out
it is coming a snow storm right now so no telling when i will be able to get back out
#14
I have been having so much trouble out of lifters lately I have talked to several mechanics all of them are stumped so I figured i would post on here hopefully someone will have a answer.
for some reason when I replace my lifters in my jeep cherokee 2.5l 4 cyl every time i reach 150 miles after it starts missing and i need to change the lifters because every one except a couple will be stuck up not down witch has caused the bottoms of the lifters to wear concave and has bent all 8 pushrods at one point this has happened 4 times so far one of the push rods it bent into a s shape the first time it happened
so far i have put a in a new cam and head and 5 sets of lifters
it got so bad one day that it acually knocked a whole in the bottom of one of the lifters and the lifters that get stuck are never in the same place for instance the worst ones in the bunch first time was number 1 exhaust i changed lifters then it was number 4 exhaust so i changed lifters again then it was number 2 intake then after that it was number 1 intake then number 2 exhaust
any ideas
for some reason when I replace my lifters in my jeep cherokee 2.5l 4 cyl every time i reach 150 miles after it starts missing and i need to change the lifters because every one except a couple will be stuck up not down witch has caused the bottoms of the lifters to wear concave and has bent all 8 pushrods at one point this has happened 4 times so far one of the push rods it bent into a s shape the first time it happened
so far i have put a in a new cam and head and 5 sets of lifters
it got so bad one day that it acually knocked a whole in the bottom of one of the lifters and the lifters that get stuck are never in the same place for instance the worst ones in the bunch first time was number 1 exhaust i changed lifters then it was number 4 exhaust so i changed lifters again then it was number 2 intake then after that it was number 1 intake then number 2 exhaust
any ideas
The lifters in the photo are unbelieveably damaged; the camshaft they came in contact with is all FU'ed as well, without even having to look at it. I suggest: check your valve springs, valves, pistons, lifter bores for damage, if lifter bores are burred/scored they have to be honed out (oversize lifters are available), replace any damaged parts, get a new, stock camshaft and lifters, new timing chain and sprockets, prime the lifters before installation, install the camshaft-making sure of proper alignment with the crankshaft, smear generous amounts of assembly lube on the BOTTOM of the lifters and on the cam lobes PRIOR to installation. Remove the spark plugs and HAND rotate the engine, checking for any feeling of mechanical resistance (you shouldn't feel any), then button it up, replace the spark plugs, and it should run fine.