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Old 01-12-2009, 10:26 AM   #1
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Default 4-link to 3-link

Alright so I was think the other day about the difference. What's the advantage of either? I know a 3-link provides greater flex off road, but not much beyond that. Also can we just remove the passenger upper control arm from are Cherokees and make them preform better?
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:15 PM   #2
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you will see as much flex as your other components allow with either setup. most likely factory longarms or shocks (provided your brakelines are long enough)

if you remove one upper, you are placing your entire axle and frotn end components at the mercy of one 10mm bolt. if that one bolt snaps, then it takes out other components with it.
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Old 01-12-2009, 04:09 PM   #3
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go for a true long arm. it is essentially a 4 bar link, but mounts to the frame in only 2 places.

the upper arms both mount to the lowers.


i wouldn't remove any stock arms. they are very weak and bend quite easily in their stock locations as it is.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:10 PM   #4
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X2 on cage i know the stock uppers are weak lol
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:11 PM   #5
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X2 on cage i know that from experience
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
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go for a true long arm. it is essentially a 4 bar link, but mounts to the frame in only 2 places.

the upper arms both mount to the lowers.


i wouldn't remove any stock arms. they are very weak and bend quite easily in their stock locations as it is.
what?

a there are plenty of "true" long arm kits and designs that arent radius arms which you described. and what are you saying about the stock CA mounts?
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:03 AM   #7
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i've seen some longarm kits that still use the stock upper control arm frame mounts for the upper links, but the lowers are mounted to a custom crossmember. they still work, but do limit some articulation.

i didn't say anything about the stock control arm mounts, but i'd just cut em off anyways. they're weak too.

cheers
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
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i've seen some longarm kits that still use the stock upper control arm frame mounts for the upper links, but the lowers are mounted to a custom crossmember. they still work, but do limit some articulation.

i didn't say anything about the stock control arm mounts, but i'd just cut em off anyways. they're weak too.

cheers
terafail?

sure it limits articulation, but i would be more concerned with the pinion dive and binding driveshafts
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:41 PM   #9
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yeah, that's it.

i just didn't want to openly diss a product, but yeah....
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:07 PM   #10
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Well ya'll answered that question, I forgot how small those stock upper control arm bolts are. I don't plan on doing a long arm anytime soon as I've got other projects I'm working on. When I do go that route my plans are to go with the RK 3-link. That's what got me thinking about a short arm one. Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:16 PM   #11
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It isn't hard to make you own just get the brackets and a calculator
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Rear 3 in aal with 1.5 shackle soon to be replaced
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
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It isn't hard to make you own just get the brackets and a calculator
True, especially one as simple as the RK kit. I plan on keeping it low at 4.5" for now with 33's so no need for a full long arm setup.
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:21 AM   #13
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True, especially one as simple as the RK kit. I plan on keeping it low at 4.5" for now with 33's so no need for a full long arm setup.
RK's kit is a "full" long arm kit..
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
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RK's kit is a "full" long arm kit..
Ya, I know what the RK kit is. You misunderstood my posting. I don't plan on running a long arm kit. I'm just going to keep running it as is with the short arms at 4.5". It hasn't given me any problems yet. I was just stating how simple the design is on the RK kit. Really don't know how everyone got off on longarm talks cause the original post was meant for just talking about trying to improve the stock suspension by removing a limiting factor. Which was solved quickly by the reminder that the stock upper control arm bolts are 10mm.
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