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Old 04-14-2011, 11:52 PM   #1
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Default 4.0 to 4.0 HO swap

not sure if this is the right location for this, but ive got a 1990 XJ that i picked up from a buddy of mine, and the engine (stock 4.0) has a baseball sized hole in the block. I was able to locate a 4.0 from a 93 cherokee UpCountry that has the high output version of the motor. its my understanding from reading up on a thread or two on another website, that it is not a 100% direct drop motor, and that i'll have to swap out a few things.

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I've done this swap I put a 95 HO 5speed drivetrain into my 88 5speed. Are both cherokees 5-speed? If they are then DO IT, Its easy. Go to cnyjeep.org and register and lookup my writeup for the tranny swap writeup i did im cherokeenut on there. Second the HO 4.0L will swap right in. Use your intake and all your sensors and put them on the HO motor and just use the HO exhaust manifold as its a better design. To you guys that say its not possible it is think about it, the motor has the same displacement, Same stroke and bore, and the same timing. The only differences is the Head design as the exhaust and intake ports have been played with to make it a HO and 95 and newer HO have been changed a little here and there for Emissions. That and the output shaft has more teeth on the newer HO. So bolting an older tranny to the HO gets tricky. And putting the newer tranny in an 88 would require the computer to be swapped from the donor to the 88. But if they are both 5 speed then put your intake from ur RENIX injected 88 right on the HO with the 88's sensors, then put the rest of the 88's sensors in the HO block at their appropriate places. You will have to shave the corners of your RENIX intake to fit the newer style exhaust manifold below the Intake but its easy and you only have to shave maybe 3/16's of an inch off the outer lower corners of the intake. In fact the RENIX is a very good computer but it doesn't store codes that's its one downfall. It does however have a knock sensor which no HO chrysler fuel injected 4.0L did. The knock sensor allows the computer to "hear" (if u will) pre-detonation of fuel and change the air fuel mix to stop it so the engine doesn't get damaged. I would say use the newer tranny and t-case too as swapping the old to the new motor is the hard part. Put the whole 97 setup in your 88 its easy the bodies haven't changed over the years. The RENIX computer is popular for stroker motors as it comes with a knock sensor and all its sensors are easily connected to the APEXI SAFC II and other programmers for fuel/air tuning. You will have to use all ur brackets and accesories such as alternator powersteering pump and a/c on the HO motor but it all just unbolts and the non HO stuff bolts right on i did it in my garage in 2 days. All the sensors swap with the intake and the oil filter housing (and pressur sending unit) swaps right over from the non HO to the HO its just vertical instead of facing the back. And the distributor drops right into the HO block from the Non HO block. Swapping the intake fixes ur fuel pressure and injector nonsense. The only thing you guys didn't mention was that the flywheel or flexplate is different depending on whether you have a 5 speed or an automatic. The timing teeth on the flywheels (flexplates if automatic) are different for the different injection system. If you swap the flywheel from your 88 onto you 97 it will bolt right on and the clutch assembly will bolt right back over it. Note however that i swapped a 95 drivetrain with a 5 speed into my 88 that was a 5 speed. If u have an automatic 97 u will need the computer from the 97 to control the tranny once you put it in your 88. So if you are swapping a 5 speed drivetrain into your 5 speed 88 there isn't much that needs to be done other than changing the flywheel and all the engine accessories. If your 88 is an automatic and you want to put a 97 5speed drivetrain in it then you will need to install the master cylinder and clutch pedal from the 97 to the 88 then bypass your neutral safety switch for your 88 so it will still start with the 5 speed drivetrain. Bolting the tranny from the 88 to the HO or bolting the newer auto into an 88 is where things get tricky because the input and output shafts change from some years and the newer tranny has a computer that it needs. Thats why I stick with the 5 speeds. IT CAN BE DONE IF YOU WANT IT TO GET DONE

I figured no one wanted to give you the details so thats most of the details sign-up for cnyjeep.org and private message me if you want some help with it or any further details i dont mind looking stuff up for you to help you out.

The non disconnect front end is better its got a solid passenger side shaft and the 231J is the tranfer case that 97 has if it has the option for 2hi. Its a better case for offroad use but you CAN'T use 4 wheel drive unless on slippery surfaces or you will destroy the transfercase. Actually the front axle is better too from the 97 as it has larger u-joints and it will swap right in no changes to the design from 88 to 97 as far as mounting or driveline changes just the u-joints and it not having a disconnect. The rear end will swap right into your 88 too if it was setup under the 97. So i say get it just to get the 8.8 all setup for your xj and to get the larger front u joints and get rid of your vacuum disconnect. The 8.8 is arguably as strong or stronger than a D44 which your xj might just have under the rear end of it. The D44 was offered from 87 though 89 i believe as part of a tow package on the XJ. Look under your jeep and remember the shape of the Rear Diff cover and take a look online you have the Dana 35 (piece of junk - mine did last 250K miles but its hit or miss with this axle) or else the D44 under your jeep. Look it up if you got a 44 under that XJ your lucky.

And the HO was the only 4.0L jeep used in a cherokee after 91. So the 97 is a HO whether it says it on the hatch or not.

And all the D30 front axles from 88 to 99 in the XJ's were High Pinion reverse cut. Low pinion standard cut was 00-01 and was in all YJ's and TJ's(I believe). Im not sure about ZJ's I believe they were high pinion standard cut though. A low pinion in the front drives on the coast or beveled side of the gear and under higher loads, the pinion teeth are forced out of the contact area into the higher thinner edges of the teeth and that's what tends to destroy the gear teeth. A high pinion on the other hand drives on the flat side (drive side)of the tooth and the contact pattern tends to remain static regardless of the loads placed on it. Low pinion is Stronger in reverse if thats what you need?. Oh and standard cut is worse than reverse cut for front axles and stronger for a rear end gear (look it up). You have the strongest D30 Jeep offered under the front of that 97 XJ.
thats the most helpful post i found, and its my understanding that i have to swap out the intake and splice in the wiring (friend didnt get the '93 wiring harness or computer). both Jeep's have the AW4 auto, so that shouldnt be a problem at all. and from what my friend was saying from looking at the Jeep is that the oil filter is vertical on the '93 and horizontal on the '90, anyone know if this will cause an issue based on the location?

anyone have any other info on this?

Thanks,
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:15 AM   #2
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Hmmmm..... wouldn't it be way easier to just change the heads out?!?! I've wondered about this a lot!!! Just never thought to ask...figured I'd just do it and c what happens!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:19 AM   #3
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i'm only asking because i dont want to waste time when i can finally get my hands dirty and do the swap, right now i'm sitting in S. Korea and have my buddy collecting the parts etc. and around June is when i should do the swap.

The only differences is the Head design as the exhaust and intake ports have been played with to make it a HO

the post above has some decent info, but i just want to get a few more opinions on it, and see if how much of a PITA it might be.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:28 AM   #4
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Just take the H0 block and swap your renix head and intake to the block to keep all your sensors and all that. No wiring needed. This was done to mine before I got it. I have a 94 block but have my 90 head and intake, and got all the renix sensors on it.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alsxj
Just take the H0 block and swap your renix head and intake to the block to keep all your sensors and all that. No wiring needed. This was done to mine before I got it. I have a 94 block but have my 90 head and intake, and got all the renix sensors on it.
Wrong way dude.... the blocks are the same!! Its the heads we're talking about..... taking the HO and putting it in an older Jeep cause the HO was just a change in head design in the 90's!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:35 AM   #6
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I honestly would swap a whole HO, its worth the work
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19990XJ
i'm only asking because i dont want to waste time when i can finally get my hands dirty and do the swap, right now i'm sitting in S. Korea and have my buddy collecting the parts etc. and around June is when i should do the swap.

The only differences is the Head design as the exhaust and intake ports have been played with to make it a HO

the post above has some decent info, but i just want to get a few more opinions on it, and see if how much of a PITA it might be.
I don't know man but I've thought about taking like a 95 or so head and putting it on my 89 block just to c what the big hoopwa is/was about the HO.... may help me out a lil cn as though I'm bored 30 over and have no other upgrades to the motor!! But ill do some asking around and share what I find!!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:09 AM   #8
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it wouldnt really work for just the Head though i dont think, seeing how the primary upgrades were to the head, intake port, and exhaust manifold. the best bet would be to just swap the intake, and all the sensors in order to keep the upgraded parts.
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:16 AM   #9
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i swapped a 93 block into my old 88 when i did the same thing to it, all you have to do is use the block and the heads, swap over the rest of the stuff from your old motor to the HO one
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:58 AM   #10
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http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/91-h...r-90-xj-31362/
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:37 AM   #11
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it looks like i'll need to get a new throttle body (or bore the stock one out) and look into some better injectors to balance out the power. I may look into pulling a '93 wiring harness and computer from the Junkyard so i can run the HO motor in its stock form.

I think a cold air intake, and new exhaust is definitely towards the top of the list as well.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:41 PM   #12
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friend of mine who's got the Jeep sitting in his yard just pointed out that the oil filter is vertical on the HO, and closer to horizontal on the original motor, will this affect anything, or do i have to rotate the oil filter housing somehow?
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #13
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I have a '90 pioneer that i took the engine from a '94 and straight swapped the engine and manifold, i took all the sensors, distributor and oil filter mount and put them on the '94 and put it in. I just started running it on the road and haven't had any problems yet except it idles a little high but I think it just has to do with the idle air control. I didn't touch any of the wiring or the computer and it has worked fine

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Old 05-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #14
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Here's how to do it:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

Revised 03/28/13

 
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