89Pioneer

Alright guys, I know this is a repost, but no one responded in the original thread. I finally swapped the rear end out yesterday. Seems great so far, just have a few questions. Am I going to feel any difference with the Chryco? I'm not sure, but it sounds like I am at a lower RPM on the highway now. I realize this could just be that the engine isn't having to drag a diying 35 around. Also, I've just noticed a slight lag when accelerating. Not everytime, just a few times. The engine will rev, but it took a second or so before I started to go. Does the engine and tranny have to work harder to turn the bigger rear end? Also, I've lost a little break pressure. We bled the breaks after the install several times. Also did the front ones because the pedal would go to the floor once we started the engine. We replaced the shoes while we were at it. Rear only. Thanks for the help ya'll.

muddeprived

Are you sure the gears are the same as the one in the dana 35? 3.55's? You shouldn't feel much of a difference, if any, between the two.

When you installed the shoes, did you adjust them correctly? They need to be adjusted so they are just barely touching the drum when you put it on. If not, then you will have to press the pedal more and that'll make it feel like you lost pressure.

How did you bleed them? Did you do the corners in the correct order?

89Pioneer

The Chryco came with the 3.55 tag and the J/Y opened it up to ensure this. When I was underneath it the other day I saw a tag on the transfer that said it was 242 ratio. Does that mean anything? What's the correct way to bleed the breaks?

BowtieGuy3

Start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Open the bleeder and have someone put constant pressure on the brake pedal til it hits the floor.

HOLD IT THERE UNTIL YOU TIGHTEN THE BLEEDER.

Repeat this until no air, and just a steady stream of fluid comes out. Make sure you keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level, keep it full. Then move to the next farthest wheel, then the next, etc. The usual progression for cars is RR LR FR FL. Although for our friends from over the pond (right side drive) it's LR RR FL FR.

89Pioneer

Thanks man. The way we did it did not include the corners. With the engine off I pumped the pedal until it was hard then my partner opened the valve until it quit farting. Then repeat a few times. Then we moved on the to other side. We bled them until there was no more farts. I think I just need to adjust the shoes in the back. I will do the corners thing this weekend to make sure.

99NCXJ

you sure your transfer case said it was a 242 ratio? or is it an NP242 with a 2.7 something ratio?

BlueXJ

242 is the model number not the ratio of the transfercase. IIRC it is 2.7:1 ratio but not 100% sure I remember that correctly.

muddeprived

Best way is what was described above. That method you tried may work but it still leaves air bubbles trapped in the caliper/wheel cylinder. If you do it corner, by corner, you can bleed the old fluid out and have fresh fluid in there. Remember brake fluid absorbs water over the years and needs to be flushed every couple years anyways.

BowtieGuy3

Go to a big, empty parking lot. Drive backwards a few times, and stop every 15 feet.

And no, I'm not kidding.

The self-adjusters will take car of the rest. Or you can get underneath, pull the rubber plug on the backing plate, and adjust the self-adjusters with a screwdriver or that fancy lil' tool they make for it.
Oh, and if you're not in a hurry, you can also gravity bleed the brakes. Take the M/C cap off, open all 4 bleeders at once, and wait (overnight usually). Gravity will do the rest.

muddeprived

wont fluid drip out of the bleeders? (gravity bleed)

BowtieGuy3

Yeah, but that's the point of a gravity bleed. I also forgot to mention it has to be on a level surface or level in the air. It's more useful when you're changing brake fluid. The 4-corner method is the standard. You can even get one of those vacuum tools to turn brake bleeding into a one man job.

muddeprived

i ordered one of those vacuum tools but it didnt work since it would suck air through the threads of the bleeder screw. been doing it with my gf since but im curious about the gravity bleed. how do you keep the fluid full in the reservior? do you put a bottle of brake fluid upside down so it constantly fills as it drains?

BowtieGuy3

Well for starters, you don't crank the bleeders wide open. Loosen them just enuff to allow fluid to drip. As for keeping the fluid level full in the M/C, You'll have the cap off, so overfill the hell out of it and just keep an eye on things every so often and top off as necessary.
If you want a really neat trick, go and order a set of bleeders with the check valve in it. Once you get those installed, brake bleeding is a simple one man job, then all you need is an empty jar and a short length of hose to collect what comes out.
Tip: use never-seize on the threads of all the bleeders, wether you get new ones or not, just don't get the never-seize on rubber components.
Here's the link to Summit's page for them...
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...alse&N=700+115

whowey

You loosened the bleeders too far. I use a Mighty-Vac all the time for brakes. Works like a champ. Only bad part is having to crawl back out and keep refilling the M/C.

muddeprived

I don't think i did. I loosened them 1/4 turn (this was on my tj) and attempted to suck the fluid with the pump but could see it sucking air. If i loosened it any less, it wouldn't allow fluid to come out. I think it was rust that was affecting this. My xj's bleeder screws are in worse shape than my tj's so not worth me trying it on this one. I'm gonna get those one-man bleeder screws. Problem solved