rawk krawler

Hey guys my engine is dumping over a gallon per week, I'm watching it pour out from under the air filter, it is also fouling plug 5 consistently, and has a gnarly tapping at around 1200 rpm, also used to blow smoke like hell from the dipstick.
I stopped the dipstick issue by making an rtv gasket, as it was spitting oil on my new plug wires.
Just looking for input on fixing it or just getting another motor under the hood... Has 265k on it.

Can I put my renix 4.0 in it? It's from an 89, ran like a champ at 268k and didn't leak, current setup is a 95 ho.

Rebuild is free to me aswell because I have another ho in pieces... But it seems like the rings are gone on this one due to an idiotic po.... Let me test drive 2qts low on oil and 2 gallons short on water.... Can't imagine what he did to it when it wasn't for sale.

Or would my best option be picknpull low mileage engine for $150?

I'd really like to have a reliable 89 in there again but not sure if its legal in California, all input appreciated and thank you in advance

cruiser54

Yes, you can use a REnix. Just use my write-up backwards. Why not diagnose your present oil leak yourself?




　

I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 9-15-2012

Firestorm500

Sounds like the OP has an internal crankcase pressurization problem.

Could be excessive ring blowby.

rawk krawler

I've replaced the oil pan and rms twice, an amateur damaged the block/ bearing cap and it will no longer seal, it has a slight leak, but I don't mind it.

My engine is VERY effectively pumping oil into my air filter box, I count at very least 20-30 large drops per minute and upon opening my air filter box found everything to be oil bathed, with the box itself containing 2+ inches of fresh engine oil.

Checked the Pcv system an found no blockages aswell.

The engine still failed smog miserably and won't run for an hour without fouling a plug.

I know the renix will run, but is it legal in California to swap in an older engine? Will it pass smog being the old school model?

rawk krawler

Thank you firestorm, that makes sense, pressurization pushing the oil which has no other escape, to the intake system, pouring out my oil and fouling my plug.

Will the renix engine pass ca emissions ( it did for the 89 xj) and will it be legal to use an older engine?

Else wise it's off to picknpull to pick up another ho 4.0.

Thank you again.

rawk krawler

The engine also has a vicious tapping, it's not a sticking lifter or anything of the sort, it needs a rebuild. The engine is garbage in my eyes, I'll be pulling my 703's and 99 manifold and moving to the next 4.0.
Just need to know if I can use my good ol renix or have to use another high output

Radi

CA's emission laws are specific to CA and many of us aren't too familiar with them. '95 is 'supposed' to have working OBD1, but yours will not unless you retain '95 parts as necessary. I'd think you can make it fly if you mix and match correctly, the block, crank, pistons etc don't matter much.

Mywalker1

Yea, California has crazy emissions laws from what I've heard. It's best to go with a model year rebuilt motor. If your getting blowback I'd say your head is shot. Install valve seals yourself or have it done for a temporary fix.

Radi

Blowby bad enough to blow oil out the CCV and dipstick tube is almost always loss of ring seal.

Firestorm500

I'm not in California, but if I was, before I spent another dollar or turned a wrench, I would get a definitive answer as to what you can and cannot do regarding engine swaps and smog laws/inspections.