2000 jeep Cherokee transmission slipping troubleshooting question
#1
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2000 jeep Cherokee transmission slipping troubleshooting question
I have a 2000 jeep Cherokee that I just bought. When I am at higher speeds (50 mph and above), if I let out the gas and coast for a second, then touch the gas again, it seems to slip a bit. The tach jumps. It does not do this at lower speeds. The fluid is brownish, so I'm guessing the first thing to do will be to slow flush the fluid. Then what? If anyone could run me through the order of things to check, I'd appreciate it. Really hoping this doesn't mean new transmission. Thanks
#2
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"slips a bit" and tach jumps"
If you are basing the "slipping" on the rpm jump and the jump is maybe a couple hundred rpm it may well be the torque converter locking/unlocking when you get on the throttle...if so that's normal. the fact that it only happens over 50 is the clue.
If the rpm jumps 1000 rpm there is an issue
Get the brown goo out of there in any case
If you are basing the "slipping" on the rpm jump and the jump is maybe a couple hundred rpm it may well be the torque converter locking/unlocking when you get on the throttle...if so that's normal. the fact that it only happens over 50 is the clue.
If the rpm jumps 1000 rpm there is an issue
Get the brown goo out of there in any case
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah.. My '92 started doing this a few years ago too. Drive 65ish and let off the gas.. Get on the gas again and the RPMS seems to go to 3.5K then sorta "slide" back down to 2100 or so.
Something isn't right. I suspect my converter clutches. I do a trans/t-case drain fill every fall before winter. 250K miles on the clock so it's had a good run. Local trans shop quoted 3K for a rebuild. ouch. Salvage yard quoted $300 for an under 100K mile AW4.
Something isn't right. I suspect my converter clutches. I do a trans/t-case drain fill every fall before winter. 250K miles on the clock so it's had a good run. Local trans shop quoted 3K for a rebuild. ouch. Salvage yard quoted $300 for an under 100K mile AW4.
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It is only a couple hundred rpms, and a friend of mine told me the same thing that you just said. That's a huge relief. I will definitely change the fluid. Should I do some sort of flush or simply change the fluid and filter?
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There is no filter in the AW4. Only a screen that is not really easy to change or needed to be changed. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the pan. Be SURE to use the correct size socket as it will be on there TIGHT if it's never been removed. 4 quarts will hopefully drain out...
Pick up a 5QT jug of Dexron/Mercon III. I used Valvoline Dex/Merc III from Walmart. No need to use the Mopar ATF+4 as the dealer will try to sell you. It's a Toyota transmission and it uses Dex/Merc III!
Add 4 quarts from the jug after draining and replacing the drain plug. Drive to temp and check fluid level idling in park HOT.
Repeat in a week or so. Do NOT "power flush" via Jiffy Lube and their ilk. That is a sure-fire way to mess up ANY transmission.
Easy peasy.
Last edited by diskman; 03-08-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Should also change the transfer case ATF while you are messing around under the Jeep. It's really easy. Remove the TOP fill plug first on the trans case THEN remove the bottom drain plug. Be sure to use the correct socket here also as they can be crazy tight.
Removing the TOP one ensures that you can refill it once drained. Nothing like draining the fluid and finding the fill plug impossible to remove. :P
Carefully add 1.5 to 2 or so quarts of ATF via the top hole or until it runs out of the fill hole. Using a 5 dollar "Atwood Gear Lube Pump" from Walmart makes filling the t-case easier. They can be found in the marine section usually near sporting goods with all the boating crap.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-G...-Pump/16351021
Removing the TOP one ensures that you can refill it once drained. Nothing like draining the fluid and finding the fill plug impossible to remove. :P
Carefully add 1.5 to 2 or so quarts of ATF via the top hole or until it runs out of the fill hole. Using a 5 dollar "Atwood Gear Lube Pump" from Walmart makes filling the t-case easier. They can be found in the marine section usually near sporting goods with all the boating crap.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-G...-Pump/16351021