Salden Hund

Ok, so I'm overseas now and have two weeks to get my 1990 Cherokee running to be shipped or it's dessert fodder for sure.

A few weeks ago, my original alt seized and I replaced it w a used one from a local garage. Everything seemed fine for a week or so, but past few days starting her up seemed to labor more and the ignition seemed to lag more as if the batt wasn't getting a charge. When the mech used the batt tester, it seemed as if the battery was fine and the new one registered the same reading. ( battery tester is the type that will sim a starter load and to me both batts did the same performance.) so they kept sayin the alt was charging and I left w the new batt(out of box new). Throughout the day, starting seemed to lag more like before and it eventually died. I tried jumping and the batt wouldn't even charge.

After a few minutes of med Rpms from donor car still the jeep wouldn't even turn. Headlights are bright, windows roll down normally... Wtf! There's no clicking and it doesn't even turn. Any tips??? I'm hoping the jeep dealer sells staters and alts but I've literally weeks before I have to give up and leave her here in Bahrain.

Any ideas?

f i s h e r

Did they actually verify that the alt. was charging? And as far as the starter issue, check your batt. cables and also verify you have power at the starter as well as your s terminal voltage at the starter when you are cranking. That would be a good place to start.

Rikkasdaddy

My guess would be a starter issue too. Had a 35o Chevy boat engine did the exact same. Changed the starter and the problem was solved.

Salden Hund

Prognosis:
ignition was laboring more and more throughout the past few weeks. Eventually wouldn't even turn.
Starter motor was bad. Practically exploded when I plugged in the new one an turned on. Sounds so nice. Boom. Done

Thanks for looking

Salden Hund

To answer your question, they said the alternator was good from using a battery tester. In my mind I think he wanted to sell a new batt... Not a loss cause the other one had to be about a year old.

They plugged the tester in and It read 13 volts idle. With it off, I pressed the button that simulates a starter motor pull and it seemed the OLD battery was fine reading about 9v. I can't really complain since I HAVE to get her running ASAP so it can be shipped next week to Cali. The new starter cost me 245$... With a discount.... All is well now.

RTorrez1

I'm glad you got her going. It's always nice to hear a success at the end.

cruiser54

Fix your poor grounding system:

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 11-28-2011

Salden Hund

Cruiser!!
Wow, that is a lot of good stuff. That's filled my weekend with a project for sure. I don't know why those puny grounds didn't bother me before.

cruiser54

Click on the link in my signature for more homework. LOL.