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1997 AW4 solenoid questions

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Old 07-16-2015, 01:42 PM
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Default 1997 AW4 solenoid questions

Recently purchased a '97 XJ with the 4.0L, the chassis has 225k on it but the motor/trans should have less than 50k on them. After aboot 2 weeks of daily driving I got a check engine light with codes P0700 and P1898. It seems to shift fine in automatic and when manually shifted I'm just not sure the od/lu is happening. I ordered a set of 3 solenoids online http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Transmission-Solenoid-Set-Kit-A340E-A340-AW4-Tcc-Shift-Lock-Up-Jeep-340-/331114055132?hash=item4d17ef85dc&vxp=mtr and grabbed a filter kit and fluid from Oreilly's. I'm probably overthinking it but I noticed 2 of the solenoids look/are exactly the same and am assuming they are interchangeable? Just trying to clear up any potential issues before I drop the pan and do it tomorrow. Any help would be much appreciated, I've already found the one popular write up for changing out the solenoids and it's definitely not anything beyond my capabilities just wanting to avoid extra work.
Old 07-16-2015, 05:14 PM
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Here's the solenoids.


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Old 07-16-2015, 05:25 PM
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Thank you, I made sure to save pics and all but the new solenoids two of three look the same so I assume the odd one out is the l/u but the other two are identical so I'm not sure if it matters which goes where I mean they are all supposed to measure between 11-15 ohm anyways so idk. I will however take photos before and after to post for the next fellow to study
Old 07-16-2015, 07:20 PM
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Ok, so whomever was touching it last over torqued the drain plug. New plan is to go to JY Saturday snag a new pan and a spare set of factory solenoids to compare/tinker with. 15 minutes of prep and detaching the dipstick to be foiled by a stripped plug.
Old 07-16-2015, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by NikoBellick
Thank you, I made sure to save pics and all but the new solenoids two of three look the same so I assume the odd one out is the l/u but the other two are identical so I'm not sure if it matters which goes where I mean they are all supposed to measure between 11-15 ohm anyways so idk. I will however take photos before and after to post for the next fellow to study
It's the mounting that makes them different. Two are the same and one odd ball. All three function the same.


There are tutorials floating around about using A340 solenoids in an AW4.
Old 07-23-2015, 03:33 PM
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Thank you! My work schedule makes it such that by the time I get home and the fluid has enough time to cool its pitch black out. Apartment life sucks. This Saturday will swap them out and assuming that fixes the problem I'm going to go ahead and swap out the rest of the drive train fluids whilst under there.
Old 07-24-2015, 06:05 AM
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Lucky guy getting the dipstick apart! I wasn't that lucky and had to cut mine and hose it back togther.

The solenoids are easy to change but, be careful with the wires. The heat makes them a little brittle and stiff, at least mine were! Stay clear of the pan when you drop it because you may think all the fluid is out but, there will be some left in it.
Old 07-29-2015, 07:55 PM
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All right folks, I have changed out the solenoids Saturday night and up until today it was back to running at normal pace. Today the light came back on though it still feels like it is driving normally. I pulled the codes and the same two from before came back Po700, P1898 and a new one P1489 which is pulling up a fan relay code. The ticking noise I described before turned out to be a corner of the fan shroud that came loos and was hitting the fan. Could the fan relay code and the trans codes be related somehow? It hasn't overheated on me and the fan is not constantly running, seems to function normally. Trying to avoid letting strange men put there hands on my babies under bits so if anyone has suggestions I'm open to them.
Old 07-29-2015, 07:59 PM
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If it helps any, while doing the solenoid job the fluid was clean there were no metal shavings save a tiny bit clinging to the magnets, the solenoids were original and the rubber gasket on one seemed shrunken from age but otherwise all seemed well in there and she is driving better. Not sure how I'm supposed to tell if I'm getting Lock Up/over drive or not.
Old 07-29-2015, 09:44 PM
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While driving in OD at 50+ MPH holding your right foot steady on the gas pedal, depress the brake pedal with your left foot. The RPMs should rise 2-300 RPM.
Ron
Old 07-29-2015, 09:58 PM
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Mine is an automatic with no rpm gauge. But I guess I could just get up to fifty and do it while listening for the rise in rpm. Thank you, I'll at least be able to answer that question. Tempted to call lkq and get a remanufactured trans and call it a day.
Old 07-29-2015, 10:00 PM
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P.s


Went ahead andinstalled a new fan relay and reset the light
Old 07-30-2015, 08:28 AM
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The solenoid/trans check engine codes are ones that likes to be reset rather than wait til it goes out on its own.
Old 07-30-2015, 08:51 AM
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Since I've swapped solenoids it's come back on at around 87 miles of driving. Did the od test at 50+mph and it does seem to be working. Not sure where to go from here with it as I'm fairly sure it's gonna come back on though it has no discernable symptoms.Of course my inspection is out, gotta sort this soon.
Old 07-30-2015, 08:52 AM
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Called Eagle Transmission during lunch, going to drop it off tomorrow after work relay everything I've done and tried so far and see what they come up with. I'm almost certain it's just something electrical.

Last edited by NikoBellick; 07-30-2015 at 03:45 PM.


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