1997 AW4 solenoid questions
#31
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You da man CCKen! I hate assuming that's why I ask. So, assuming all the voltage checks work out does that necessarily mean there is continuity through all the wires?
#33
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Ok, been busy. Light stayed off for 134 miles, long enough for me to pass inspection. Still getting the same code and issues. Last night and this morning I did the tcm checks with my multi meter. On the solenoids I'm not getting a reading and on the voltage check for each gear I get about .06_.12 voltage which is a far cry from where it should be. Pretty sure my cheap multi meter is working as it reads a steady 12.33 on the battery.
So, should I look at replacing the harness? Anything else it could be? Andfinally, will any year harness work?
So, should I look at replacing the harness? Anything else it could be? Andfinally, will any year harness work?
#34
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Ok, been busy. Light stayed off for 134 miles, long enough for me to pass inspection. Still getting the same code and issues. Last night and this morning I did the tcm checks with my multi meter. On the solenoids I'm not getting a reading and on the voltage check for each gear I get about .06_.12 voltage which is a far cry from where it should be. Pretty sure my cheap multi meter is working as it reads a steady 12.33 on the battery.
So, should I look at replacing the harness? Anything else it could be? Andfinally, will any year harness work?
So, should I look at replacing the harness? Anything else it could be? Andfinally, will any year harness work?
Verify that the ground circuit (pin cav 24) reads continuity (less than 5 Ohms resistance), by reading from pin cav 24 to a bare spot on the dash.
If you read a high resistance, verify the ground from the battery negative post to the right fender is not corroded (G100), and the ground from the battery negative post to the ground studs on the right side of the engine is/are not corroded (G101). Requires disassembly.
G100:
G101:
#36
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Ok, so clearly I am not competent with a multi meter. I went back out and rechecked ground to 24 this time making sure to put the safety pin into the smaller hole. Ground was great. Proceeded with the test you posted previously. The solenoids all read 15-16ohms. I realize now I didn't check resistance between 6&7. 25 and 26 read 12-12.20v the only gear selection that read under 12 volts was reverse at 11.76 or so. When probing 16&17 together it read .78 with gas pedal depressed read 3.5-3.8 or so not anything above 4
cavity 6 and 7 were both less than spec but by less than .15 I believe. I should have taken time to get a pen and pad and write everything down exactly but it seems as if everything was within spec. On cavity 6&7 when they say spec do they mean it should read exactly that or ?
cavity 6 and 7 were both less than spec but by less than .15 I believe. I should have taken time to get a pen and pad and write everything down exactly but it seems as if everything was within spec. On cavity 6&7 when they say spec do they mean it should read exactly that or ?
#37
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Ok, so clearly I am not competent with a multi meter. I went back out and rechecked ground to 24 this time making sure to put the safety pin into the smaller hole. Ground was great.
Good.
Proceeded with the test you posted previously. The solenoids all read 15-16ohms.
Good.
I realize now I didn't check resistance between 6&7.
You should have. This tells you if one of the termination resistors on the CCD Bus is bad (Instrument Cluster or PCM). If both termination resistors are up to par you will see 60 Ohms, if one is completely out you will see 120 Ohms.
25 and 26 read 12-12.20v the only gear selection that read under 12 volts was reverse at 11.76 or so.
NSS is good.
When probing 16&17 together it read .78 with gas pedal depressed read 3.5-3.8 or so not anything above 4
TPS inputs are good.
cavity 6 and 7 were both less than spec but by less than .15
^ Is this a voltage reading you re taking here?
I believe. I should have taken time to get a pen and pad and write everything down exactly but it seems as if everything was within spec. On cavity 6&7 when they say spec do they mean it should read exactly that or ?
No, variance is allowed but if the voltage is below 1.8 or above 2.8 there is a problem.
Good.
Proceeded with the test you posted previously. The solenoids all read 15-16ohms.
Good.
I realize now I didn't check resistance between 6&7.
You should have. This tells you if one of the termination resistors on the CCD Bus is bad (Instrument Cluster or PCM). If both termination resistors are up to par you will see 60 Ohms, if one is completely out you will see 120 Ohms.
25 and 26 read 12-12.20v the only gear selection that read under 12 volts was reverse at 11.76 or so.
NSS is good.
When probing 16&17 together it read .78 with gas pedal depressed read 3.5-3.8 or so not anything above 4
TPS inputs are good.
cavity 6 and 7 were both less than spec but by less than .15
^ Is this a voltage reading you re taking here?
I believe. I should have taken time to get a pen and pad and write everything down exactly but it seems as if everything was within spec. On cavity 6&7 when they say spec do they mean it should read exactly that or ?
No, variance is allowed but if the voltage is below 1.8 or above 2.8 there is a problem.
#39
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Yes on 6&7 that was voltage. Going to do the tests over one more time and write it all down. Problem is, I've already swapped out thinking it was that and I'm still getting same codes. Could it be the trans does have an issue? It does seem abit sluggish at times then at times not.
Much appreciated on all the help, So far nobody posting about this code seems to have solved it, I would like to.
Much appreciated on all the help, So far nobody posting about this code seems to have solved it, I would like to.
#40
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You didn't mention checking your Output Speed Sensor resistance.
On the checklist I put 'Resistance Unknown' only because at the time I didn't know what it should be, but since then I've seen that the resistance should read open.
So when doing step 2.3. resistance checks, look for open (infinity) on your Ohmmeter.
On the checklist I put 'Resistance Unknown' only because at the time I didn't know what it should be, but since then I've seen that the resistance should read open.
So when doing step 2.3. resistance checks, look for open (infinity) on your Ohmmeter.
#42
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Well, I just tested resistance between 6&7 and came in at 61 ohm....Didn't test the output speed sensor as it was replaced in the last 30 days.
I swapped out the TCM earlier this month with no discernible difference, I suppose I can swap it again and see if anything this time but I am doubting it. It feels like occasionally it is dropping out of overdrive but I'm not sure. So, everything has tested out perfect does this mean I should be looking into a new transmission? If so it's been a pain trying to find a low mileage AW out of a 97...
I swapped out the TCM earlier this month with no discernible difference, I suppose I can swap it again and see if anything this time but I am doubting it. It feels like occasionally it is dropping out of overdrive but I'm not sure. So, everything has tested out perfect does this mean I should be looking into a new transmission? If so it's been a pain trying to find a low mileage AW out of a 97...
#43
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"Well, I just tested resistance between 6&7 and came in at 61 ohm....Didn't test the output speed sensor as it was replaced in the last 30 days."
61 Ohms is just a hair out of spec. It might be your meter. You should check it at the DLC to make sure.
Why was the Output Speed sensor changed?
Just because it was changed doesn't mean there isn't a flaw in the wiring. I suggest you test it.
61 Ohms is just a hair out of spec. It might be your meter. You should check it at the DLC to make sure.
Why was the Output Speed sensor changed?
Just because it was changed doesn't mean there isn't a flaw in the wiring. I suggest you test it.
#44
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Here's a schematic of the CCD Bus showing the DLC pin cavities.
Do the resistance check like you did at the TCM.
Same drill; disconnect the battery negative post.
Read between pin cavities 3 and 11.
Do the resistance check like you did at the TCM.
Same drill; disconnect the battery negative post.
Read between pin cavities 3 and 11.
#45
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Where at on dlc? Changed the speed sensor in hopes it was the problem, and I didn't have the test at that point. When checking for resistance on speed sensor it just says cavity four, what do I do with other probe?