photoirish

Hello all - I am new to the forum but have been a cherokee owner for almost ten years now, on my second one thanks to a Semi...I currently have a 1996 Cherokee, 4 Liter, 4WD, manual transmission with a charging problem. About six months ago I started having problems with the battery staying charged while driving, or even while idling the battery light would eventually come on and the it would eventually die. While trying to troubleshoot the problem I took both the battery and the alternator down to the parts store and had them tested, both past. I then took a battery out of a buddies cherokee and it appeared to work fine. So I went and purchased a new battery, now when it idles the battery light doesn't come on and it runs great. However, when I drive it, it still has the same battery problem, I can go about 5 to 10 minutes and then the battery light comes on. It has yet to die, but I think that is because of the new battery and some creative driving. I have checked the connections and everything seems fine. I am currently at a loss, so any ideas are more than welcome. Thanks in advance.

OverlandZJ

You dont have an amp gauge.. just the light?

I JUST replaced an alternator that was charging irradically, if it's charging at the time of testing you wont know it's bad.

photoirish

I currently just have the light, although I am going to be switching out the gauge cluster so that I can get all the gauges, but until then I just have the light. I have checked the charging with a voltmeter and it looks fine, however that it is when it is idling.

OverlandZJ

While running disconnect the pos cable.. if it stalls it's the alt. I'm no electrical expert but thats the way i understand it. I correctly id'd my problem this way a few days ago.

ET JEEP

The alternator should charge at 13-15 volts. If the light comes on at idle you might check to see if your idle speed is correct. With some long test leads you may be able to hook up a meter and see what the voltage reading is during driving speeds.

photoirish

Thanks all for the input. Pulled the positive lead off the battery and it died immediately, so it was the alternator after all. Goes to show you that it is usually the simplest solution to the problem. Swapped out the alternator and all is good. While I was add it, I went down to the local junkyard and pulled off a different instrument cluster so no more "idiot lights", only cost $20.00. Just need to get new oil pressure and coolant temperature sending units and I will be golden. Once again thanks for the input.