mmj1111

wow ok lots of ideas here, kind of overwhelmed by them. So I am going to go to autozone and rent that thing to test the pressure. I am also going to have someone start the car and ill just use my hand to test for electricity. I will also swap the AC relay with the other relay, but I am not sure that relay is even good, either! I found the ballast talk confusing, unfortunately. I'll keep you posted.

DFlintstone

The resistor is about 3 inches long. It's ceramic. (sort if like brick material, but tan or white). It has orange wires on it I think. The power to the pump goes through it. If there is not power going out the back wire, the pump is not getting power. (I would check that with a meter or a test light. You could even wire up a taillight bulb. (you would check between that rear terminal, and ground, (any bare metal on the engine).

If it fires with starting fluid, you know you have spark, and it's a fuel problem.

If the AC clutch engages when you turn on the AC, that relay is good, you can try swapping. (1/2 the reason for that is because if it's a bad connection there, just changing them will probably cause contact) If you don't hear the pump, and a little fuel doesn't spurt out (into a rag), when you depress the Schrader valve (tire kind), on the rail, you are probably not going to see much on that gauge. Good luck!

mmj1111

My AC has never worked but the defroster and heater turn on and work, does this mean the relay is still OK? I mean it turns on, it just doesn't cool, I never cared to figure out why. Thanks I am going to run these tests soon, here.

DFlintstone

If it where me, and it fired on starting fluid, I'd check for power at that rear terminal. If there wasn't I'd swap the relays. (takes 10 seconds).

mmj1111

So the relay swap didnt do the trick. Someone is coming over soon to help me with the zap test and will report back.

mmj1111

UPDATE I did the test and got shocked. And the relay swap did not work. Does this indicate that the fuel pump is spent?

F1Addict

Only if you've tried bypassing the ceramic resistor in the engine bay. As Flintstone wrote, it's bolted to the fender well on the driver's side of the engine bay and has two (orange?) wires going into it. Disconnect the wires from the resistor, connect them together, and recheck for fuel pump priming. The only thing that resistor does is quiet the pump so running without it is annoying but in no way harmful. When you can, pick up another one and replace it to quiet your pump.

Fuel pumps go bad. Resistors go bad. The fact that you have spark means that it's most likely one of those things. If you end up replacing the fuel pump I will warn you away from AirTech pumps, they're a very common aftermarket pump but their reliability is suspect. So many stories of short-term failure. Find yourself a Bosch pump and be grateful you won't have to replace it again in two or three weeks.

Bigwillie

I had the same problem a year ago. Mine was a fuel pump. it was not a hard fix. i did not even have to drop the tank. the ring to get the pump out was a bear to deal with. but after that it was all pretty easy.

mmj1111

I just connected those 2 orange wires together and reperformed the test. I got shocked. Still not starting.

F1Addict

Weird that you got shocked from that. Did you put the wires on your tongue or something? Don't do that.

I'm gonna conclude that it's time for a new fuel pump. I recommend replacing your fuel filter at the same time. It means you only have to be covered in gas just the one time

mmj1111

haha, no. I used the back of my hand. All right, well I will get a fuel filter and pump and do my best to try and figure this out! Thanks!

darknezz

hey man I just did my fuel pump, not becuase it was totally dead but on its way. If you click my build thread in my sig on the second page near the bottom I took pics of the install. I bypassed that ballast resistor awhile ago too. BEFORE you buy a new pump though, go to the gas tank and unlug the only wire connector coming from it and measure for 12v dc theyre right when someone turns the key or cranks the engine. if theres voltage 100% its the pump.

its pretty easy, undo hoses and electrical plug at the middle side front of the tank, undo the fill hose from where you put gas in, put a jack and board under the tank, unbolt the 2 straps that hold it up and it will come down. then there is this metal locking ring that you turn and then the fuel pump assembly comes out.

I got my carter pump kit and wix filter for $87 shipped from rockauto.com they are great. whatever you do DONT get airtex pumps


if you need more help just ask when you go to do it. theres lots of great people here, they have already told you what I would of to determine the pump, but i'll help with any more questions

DFlintstone

I'm not sure how you got shocked. If I verified that the wire off the back of the resistor to the pump had power, and the connections at the pump where good, (I might even check voltage there), THEN I'd pull out the pump and have a look. (You should have a better way to check for voltage!)

If there's not power there it's something "up-stream"

F1Addict

X2, LOL. They sell test lights at the 99 cent store! There's really no need for this to be painful.

DFlintstone

I've used the $5 Harbor freight meters. Seem to work OK. A continuity tester, is to see if there is a connection. (has a battery and a light).
To test for power I would just use a taillight bulb for a test light if I didn't have a meter.
Or a dash light-bulb.