Oil plug
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Oil plug
Excuse my ignorance, but I went to change the oil on my project 89 and this is what I see (pic). What the heck is this and what am I gonna find under it????
#4
Old fart with a wrench
I've seen those before. It's an emergency plug that has a large rubber gasket and is connected to a wing toggle bolt that fits inside the oil pan. It make a total mess when opened to drain the oil because it splashes all over the place and eventually the gasket wears out and you can't get the toggle bolt out of the pan. There was a piece of metal forming a handle welded onto it that appears to have come off. As the man said, it's time for a new oil pan.
When I worked at Valvoline, if we had one of those come in, we refused to change the oil because if it wouldn't seal we were screwed! We replaced a few Honda pans because we overtorqued the drain plug and that got VERY expensive and ruined our reputation.
When I worked at Valvoline, if we had one of those come in, we refused to change the oil because if it wouldn't seal we were screwed! We replaced a few Honda pans because we overtorqued the drain plug and that got VERY expensive and ruined our reputation.
Last edited by dave1123; 07-12-2019 at 11:58 AM.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for helping out guys. From what I understand changing out the oil pan is NOT fun. Oh well probably need a gasket anyways.
Last edited by 89build66; 07-12-2019 at 12:03 PM.
#6
Old fart with a wrench
In my opinion, if the rear main seal isn't leaking, DON'T MESS WITH IT! If it is, by all means fix it while you're in there.
#7
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
There is also a style that's a rubber plug with a nut on the outside to expand it. They do make repair kit for the drain holes, some of which don't require removing the pan. Although if this is what you've got, you need to pull the pan to retrieve the piece anyway.
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Homer Georgia
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
This?
There is also a style that's a rubber plug with a nut on the outside to expand it. They do make repair kit for the drain holes, some of which don't require removing the pan. Although if this is what you've got, you need to pull the pan to retrieve the piece anyway.
There is also a style that's a rubber plug with a nut on the outside to expand it. They do make repair kit for the drain holes, some of which don't require removing the pan. Although if this is what you've got, you need to pull the pan to retrieve the piece anyway.
#9
Old fart with a wrench
If you notice the end of the screw is crushed so it will not come apart. It's almost impossible to remove from the outside.
#10
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Location: Homer Georgia
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Did not notice that,however it does look pretty long so..pliers to unscrew it as far as you can cut the screw then use a magnet/needle nose pliers to try and rotate it to get it out?
#11
Member
Thread Starter
I may try to cut it and fish it out first. I have some physical limitations, so unless I absolutely have to I’m going to try to get that sucker out first. When I started this project the bottom was covered in oil. After replacing a leaking steering gear box and the oil filter adapter o-rings it hasn’t been marking its territory so I believe the rear main seal is okay as well as the oil pan gasket. Just swapped in a new open cooling system to as well as new motor mounts and was ready to change the oil and fire her up and I saw that dang plug!
#12
Member
I can tell you this - removing the pan on a 4.0 XJ should not be regarded as a joyful experience.
The clearance between the oil intake tube and the axle just isn't there.
The only way I got it done is by dropping the axle as far as possible by disconnecting the shocks and the sway bar
and then removing the bolts from the three motor/trans mounting points and lifting the engine.
The clearance between the oil intake tube and the axle just isn't there.
The only way I got it done is by dropping the axle as far as possible by disconnecting the shocks and the sway bar
and then removing the bolts from the three motor/trans mounting points and lifting the engine.
#15
If you do change the oil pan, one tip I learned was that you need to actually jack up the front axle. IT's counterintutive, but it moves the axle forward to give enough room to get the pan out. I also found it easier to remove the oil pump. It's 3 small bolts that you can get to with a ratchet. Then replacement is the opposite of removal, put the pump inside of the pan, lift the pan up, put the pump back in and then finish refitting the pan. If your gasket doesn't come with the nifty plastic holders, you can use dental floss to hold it in place on the pan.