1990 AW4 not liking 1-2 shift anymore
#1
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Year: 1990
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1990 AW4 not liking 1-2 shift anymore
Well the title about sums it up... It does not like the 1-2 shift. The other gears shift fine.
Symptoms: "All of a sudden this happened" If I do not let off to about 1/8th throttle it shifts, if not it almost spins up to 3500 rpm before the shift. Sometimes it feels like a band going out, sometimes its a beautiful feeling shift. If the revs are high (above 3000), and it feels like it wants to shift I can throttle around a little bit and it almost feels like slippage (but it could be a slow shift). If I'm putting around at almost no throttle it shifts great.
Poor girl always shifted like a dream at about 2500rpm, unless I was heavy on the throttle, then it would shift at a higher point. The shift was always almost unnoticeable. Now it seems "mushy" sometimes.
What I have done (to ZERO change in symptoms: Checked and smelled fluid, changed fluid 3 times every 5000 miles about 25000 miles ago with DEX3 fluid. I backprobed the TPS, got good values and it swept fine when I moved the throttle. The kickdown cable is correctly adjusted and verified. I pulled the fuse for the TCM, everything worked as it should (transmission is still strong as ever).
I disconnected the TCM and added the switches to control the solenoids and the 1-2 shift was still as slow and mushy as when the TCM controlled it.
What I'm leading myself to believe is that I have a solenoid going to crap. I have not tested the resistance in the solenoids yet.
Has anyone else had this issue? Is anyone else thinking I have a solenoid going bad? Or am I looking at rebuilding the unit? Is there anything I have overlooked? I have done extensive research on this over the past 2 days (when it started out of the blue).
Thank everyone in advance for at least using up your minutes reading this. Replys would be greatly appreciated, because I'm stumped.
Symptoms: "All of a sudden this happened" If I do not let off to about 1/8th throttle it shifts, if not it almost spins up to 3500 rpm before the shift. Sometimes it feels like a band going out, sometimes its a beautiful feeling shift. If the revs are high (above 3000), and it feels like it wants to shift I can throttle around a little bit and it almost feels like slippage (but it could be a slow shift). If I'm putting around at almost no throttle it shifts great.
Poor girl always shifted like a dream at about 2500rpm, unless I was heavy on the throttle, then it would shift at a higher point. The shift was always almost unnoticeable. Now it seems "mushy" sometimes.
What I have done (to ZERO change in symptoms: Checked and smelled fluid, changed fluid 3 times every 5000 miles about 25000 miles ago with DEX3 fluid. I backprobed the TPS, got good values and it swept fine when I moved the throttle. The kickdown cable is correctly adjusted and verified. I pulled the fuse for the TCM, everything worked as it should (transmission is still strong as ever).
I disconnected the TCM and added the switches to control the solenoids and the 1-2 shift was still as slow and mushy as when the TCM controlled it.
What I'm leading myself to believe is that I have a solenoid going to crap. I have not tested the resistance in the solenoids yet.
Has anyone else had this issue? Is anyone else thinking I have a solenoid going bad? Or am I looking at rebuilding the unit? Is there anything I have overlooked? I have done extensive research on this over the past 2 days (when it started out of the blue).
Thank everyone in advance for at least using up your minutes reading this. Replys would be greatly appreciated, because I'm stumped.
#2
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In here somewhere is info on checking solenoids> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/shift-solenoid-199137/
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Check AW4 solenoid resistance, 99> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/code-p0741-194083/
And below the TCU pins for 87-90, (at least). (91 to 96 is likely one or the other)
,
And below the TCU pins for 87-90, (at least). (91 to 96 is likely one or the other)
,
Last edited by DFlintstone; 04-13-2015 at 09:02 PM.
#4
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Year: 1990
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Test the solenoids and do Tip 10 first.
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Pete, did you look at Ken's info for the 99? If you had the pinout/info for which TCU sockets to use for the Renix, all the info could end up in one place.
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Thanks for the fast replys. I will pick up another can of contact cleaner in the morning and refresh said connectors. If I can fit in the warehouse (supposed to rain tomorrow), I will test the solenoids.
#7
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Better save this.
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#8
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Still have the comfort/power switch? And if so have you tried it in both positions? i don't know if that could screw up anything if it somehow got messed up, but thought I'd throw the idea out there.
#9
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Bypassing the Power/Comfort Switch on a Renix Jeep
Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks.
If you happen to have a 91 or 92 XJ/MJ and it has the Power/Comfort switch, just jumper the Tan and Blue wires in the harness plug.
NEVER include the black wire when jumpering!!!
Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks.
If you happen to have a 91 or 92 XJ/MJ and it has the Power/Comfort switch, just jumper the Tan and Blue wires in the harness plug.
NEVER include the black wire when jumpering!!!
#10
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Right on! I have the TCU pinout printed already, along with your PDF version of the "Mostly Renix Tips" (Which has saved me countless times THANK YOU!)
I never put any thought into the power/comfort switch... I just leave it in "power" because this forum told me to, and that's the way it is. I will ****** it out and jump it over for my drive to work in the morning. It couldn't hurt anything.
Thanks again for the information and all the help.
I never put any thought into the power/comfort switch... I just leave it in "power" because this forum told me to, and that's the way it is. I will ****** it out and jump it over for my drive to work in the morning. It couldn't hurt anything.
Thanks again for the information and all the help.
#11
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Right on! I have the TCU pinout printed already, along with your PDF version of the "Mostly Renix Tips" (Which has saved me countless times THANK YOU!)
I never put any thought into the power/comfort switch... I just leave it in "power" because this forum told me to, and that's the way it is. I will ****** it out and jump it over for my drive to work in the morning. It couldn't hurt anything.
Thanks again for the information and all the help.
I never put any thought into the power/comfort switch... I just leave it in "power" because this forum told me to, and that's the way it is. I will ****** it out and jump it over for my drive to work in the morning. It couldn't hurt anything.
Thanks again for the information and all the help.
#12
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Been too busy to drop the pan today, but this is what I did do: I jumpered the "pow/comf" switch, no change. I also disconnected and cleaned the gray and black plugs, also used a voltmeter to backprobe and check resistance at the plugs to see if they were seating properly while connected, all goo no change.
Another thing to note: The 3-2 shift has power and feels great, and "put putting" down the road it shifts fine. "Driving it like I stole it" it acts like a band is going bad (experience from a TH-350 makes me say that). It almost wants to feel like a bad clutch in a manual trans when I am putting power to it while it's in the speed range to make that 1-2 shift.
Another thing to note: The 3-2 shift has power and feels great, and "put putting" down the road it shifts fine. "Driving it like I stole it" it acts like a band is going bad (experience from a TH-350 makes me say that). It almost wants to feel like a bad clutch in a manual trans when I am putting power to it while it's in the speed range to make that 1-2 shift.
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Tested the Resistance of the solenoids from the TCM connector, S1 and TCC tested out at 14.5,and S2 tested at 14.25.
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Anyone know it it makes any sense to check the filter screen? Does the AW4 need more flow down there, (1-2).
Btw Gearhead, maybe Radi should read this thread. Since he sold his Jeep he's not around as much.
Btw Gearhead, maybe Radi should read this thread. Since he sold his Jeep he's not around as much.
#15
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Now you're digging up something that bothered me the first time I dropped the pan... I saw remnants of red RTV. RTV is a big NO NO in an automatic transmission from how I was raised.