beardenbulldog7

Well, here's another no start thread. I was driving my '86 pioneer to get it a bath when it started running rough at a red light and cut off. I waited a few minutes (after pushing it off to the side of course ) After about 10 minutes she started back up, but not without the pedal to the floor. I turned her around and drove her back to the storage facility and switched out with my other XJ.

On the way back, if I didn't want it to die out while idling I had to keep my foot on the gas. When driving, if I put the pedal halfway down it would pop like it wasn't getting fuel for a little bit, and then rev up like normal. I pulled it into the storage spot and it died.

Came back later and pulled the plugs, they were fouled black. Turns out the guy handed me Acdelco plugs that were a number too cold, so i switched them out with the right ones and while i was at it, changed the wires, cap and rotor with all acdelco parts.

Went to crank it, and it didn't start. Not even a hint of it. I pulled each and every plug and made sure they were gapped right and that they sparked. I sprayed some starting fluid into both areas of the carb and got no action. Same with gasoline. I pulled the fuel filter housing off to find out there was no fuel filter inside.

I am at a standstill now. I know that either the timing is off or that something is clogging the carb. I pulled the fuel line, and it's spitting out fuel when cranking so i know it's not that. I don't know where to look in the carburetor and I don't know how much fuel the carb should be spitting out in order to be right.

I know either the timing is off or fuel is not getting into the engine. When i pulled one of the plugs and cranked it, no fuel spray came out from the cylinder. Please help me on where to start. I don't have much time or the space to deal with swapping an engine so i'm stuck with this heep for now.

firehawk618

If you sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and it didn't start I would stop messing with the carburetor.

You will not see fuel "spraying" out of a cylinder.

One step "colder" plugs will not cause any of the symptoms you describe.

The fact they were black just means it was running rich. That does not mean they were fouled.

Fouled plugs will be wet.

Parsnip

Sounds like your idler jets are clogged. Which carb you got on that puppy? Might also want to check the idle butterfly(s) sounds like they may be stuck/not adjusted right

freegdr

See if Egr valve is stuck open. Remember a major vacuum leak will cause reverse effect on a carb motor than feul injection. Fuel injection will rev up where as carb will not run.

beardenbulldog7

On the front of the air cleaner facing the front of the vehicle, there are a series of vacuum hoses coming off of it. One of them dry rotted and broke off, but I don't know if that makes a difference. I am so confused, there are a few little vac hoses here and there that aren't connected but idk what they connect to and if they were connected while it was running.

steelybill

Did you check to see if you have spark ? Pull a plug, connect it's wire to it, and lay it out on the engine someplace where you can see if it has spark, while running the starter....

radicalvette

He said he had spark but what color spark blue or yellow ? Research that !!!! Sounds like your dealing with a timing issue... whats a pioner ? Regardless does it have a timing belt or chain ? Hopefully its not a interference motor where the pistons can hit the valves. If it were mine I would position the number one piston at top dead center and pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor button is pointing at number one sparkplug wire on the cap and go from there. Good luck and let us know.

Parsnip

...ok, not bad for your second post, but just a heads up for future reference

Jeeps have chains, not belts. And they are not interference, any of them. Secondly, his issue is not with spark, more with fuel delivery. It is possible that his coil has gone, or is in the process of doing so, which would result in weak spark, however with fouled plugs fuel is more of the issue.

At least, it is in my opinion. Ymmv

radicalvette

Well I have no idea what a pioneer is except a radio lol but I would start with spark and a quick refrence check to eliminate jumping time if that is what he thinks. I really just want a answer to my question lol but no guesses have been posted or facts but I have studied enough to get me through even if I end up buying a new part.

radicalvette

Yall just have to over look me im a newbie and don't know how to operate this site... I joined to ask a technical question

freegdr

You can plug all them for now . To eliminate them from the picture. Can you post a pic of the line ?

freegdr

.Possible symptoms of EGR trouble:

- Rough idle and rough part throttle operation (valve opening too easily or stuck open)
- May stall during transition from idle to part throttle (valve opening too easily or stuck open)
- Noticeable pinging (detonation) especially when engine is under load (valve inoperative)
- Trouble code 32 (valve inoperative)
- Hard or no start although fuel and spark are present (valve stuck wide open)

freegdr

On 1984 to 1986 V6 only models the codes can also be read. First locate the diagnostics connector which is on the left fender well and is divided into two sections with six in the lower section ( 3 rows of 2 ) and fifteen in the upper section ( 3 rows of 5 ). In the upper section you have to run a wire between terminal six ( first row 4 down from the top ) and terminal 7 ( third row 3 down from the top ). Then turn the key into the on position making sure not to start it while these terminals are connected at any time. It should flash the code 12 ( 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes ) three times in a row and will repeat this sequence until disconnected if no other codes are recorded. If there are any faults stored then they will follow afterwards repeating themselves three times before moving on to the next code. To clear to codes remove negative cable for 10 seconds or longer.

Code Description Most likely reason
12 Terminals 6 and 7 connected. If appears when terminals not connected and engine running, no signal between distributor and computer.
13 Oxygen sensor circuit. Check TPS adjustment. Check O2 wiring and sensor.
14 Coolant sensor circuit. Overheating or fault in wiring or coolant sensor.
15 Coolant sensor circuit. Low temperature or fault in wiring or coolant sensor.
21 TPS circuit. Signal voltage high. Check TPS and adjustment. Also wiring at both computer and TPS ends.
23 Mixture control (M/C). Check wiring at M/C solenoid and computer. Clear code and re-check after driving.
34 MAP sensor. Check wiring and hose in case of leak. Otherwise replace.
41 No distributor signal. Check distributor wiring and pick-up coil connections.
42 EST or bypass problem. Check wire to terminal 12 on ECM or faulty HEI module can cause same code.
44 Lean exhaust. Check for sticking M/C solenoid also terminals 9 and 14 at ECM. Vacuum leakage or faulty O2 sensor.
44-45 O2 sensor or circuit. O2 circuit wiring or sensor faulty.
45 Rich exhaust. Check for sticking M/C solenoid and wiring plus charcoal canister for fuel. O2 sensor faulty.
51 PROM fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
54 M/C solenoid Check wiring at M/C and ECM. Faulty M/C.
55 Reference voltage. Check short to ground on ECM terminal 21 wire. O2 sensor or ECM faulty.

beardenbulldog7

The spark is yellow, Pioneer is a trim package offered by Jeep in the 80's and early 90's. My check engine light doesn't even light up when i turn the key on, along with the 4x4 light and one other i believe. (i've tested all the bulbs, they're good). Anyway, I removed the carburetor today and took out the fuel filter that I just put in (by the way i forgot to mention, it was ran without a fuel filter for at least 8 years. Previous owner never bothered to check it or change it and I had to install one) and I screwed the housing back on and blew into it. It was clogged and then whatever was clogging it let loose and I was able to blow air through... but barely. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the filter housing to see if it would pass through and it didn't. Blew into it again, nothing passed through. Dumped the cleaner out, and blew into the housing again only now with it dry. Again, something let loose and I was able to blow air through.

I know absolutely nothing about carburetors or timing. I know that i can hook a timing light up to the number one spark plug wire and point it at the timing marks, but I believe the engine is supposed to be running for me to do that. Also, I don't know how to adjust the distributor to get it to run. You can't "just move it". I tried, there's something holding it in place. It does not make sense for me to just be sitting at a red light and then all of the sudden the timing jumps. If it jumped, I don't believe I would of been able to drive it back to storage.

beardenbulldog7

The Jeep is a 1986. The only computer it has is the ignition module, and it has only two functions: ON/OFF