01 XJ Sport - P0704 - Fried Transmission or Solenoids?
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01 XJ Sport - P0704 - Fried Transmission or Solenoids?
I think I know the answer, but I want some input.
Bought this XJ for $900. Been putting miles on it, and I'd get the rumble strip vibration that I read was the torque converter and slight grinding noise that would come and go (thought it was a bearing or ujoint). After a while that stopped. Then it'd start hesitating going into gear from parked. Had to pump the gas and give it a couple seconds to take off.
Its been running fine like that, but yesterday morning on my way to work, while climbing a hill, it gradually started losing power, until it stopped completely. No loud bangs or clanging metal. No change in the motor. Its like it just shifted into neutral and stopped.
I get towed home and a few hours later, I go to move it and it's driving fine.. until it warms up. Then it goes right back into "neutral mode".
I added some fluid, and got the same result. I drained some and added more and it ran a little longer before going out again. The fluid is very very dark but doesnt necessarily smell burnt. After I added fluid and drove some, I started to hear some whirring noise from the pan while it was in neutral. It stopped when it went into gear. It is like this in all gears, 2wd and 4wd. Its like its stuck in neutral. And that's the condition it's in right now.
I ordered a cheap solenoid service kit from ebay. Right now I'm thinking of changing all the fluid, changing the filter, replacing the solenoids and hoping for the best.
I suppose the alternative is a junkyard transmission.
I'm just wondering if anyone has had similar problems or what they think the solution would be. I'm kind of new to this, and I've searched and read a lot but can't really seem to get a clear answer. Everyone either also had symptoms I didn't, or I have ones that they didn't.
any input would be much appreciated.
Bought this XJ for $900. Been putting miles on it, and I'd get the rumble strip vibration that I read was the torque converter and slight grinding noise that would come and go (thought it was a bearing or ujoint). After a while that stopped. Then it'd start hesitating going into gear from parked. Had to pump the gas and give it a couple seconds to take off.
Its been running fine like that, but yesterday morning on my way to work, while climbing a hill, it gradually started losing power, until it stopped completely. No loud bangs or clanging metal. No change in the motor. Its like it just shifted into neutral and stopped.
I get towed home and a few hours later, I go to move it and it's driving fine.. until it warms up. Then it goes right back into "neutral mode".
I added some fluid, and got the same result. I drained some and added more and it ran a little longer before going out again. The fluid is very very dark but doesnt necessarily smell burnt. After I added fluid and drove some, I started to hear some whirring noise from the pan while it was in neutral. It stopped when it went into gear. It is like this in all gears, 2wd and 4wd. Its like its stuck in neutral. And that's the condition it's in right now.
I ordered a cheap solenoid service kit from ebay. Right now I'm thinking of changing all the fluid, changing the filter, replacing the solenoids and hoping for the best.
I suppose the alternative is a junkyard transmission.
I'm just wondering if anyone has had similar problems or what they think the solution would be. I'm kind of new to this, and I've searched and read a lot but can't really seem to get a clear answer. Everyone either also had symptoms I didn't, or I have ones that they didn't.
any input would be much appreciated.
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Drain and refill as planned. If the transmissioin fluid is that dark, the transfer case probably needs a little love as well. Remove the fill plug first because if you start with the drain plug and the fill plug wont budge, youre not going anywhere. Check all fluids while you are at it.
Make your Jeep happy again.
Make your Jeep happy again.
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Thank you
Thanks for the advice and support. I'm gonna do a preliminary fluid change tomorrow to check the filter and pan for metal.
Would it be wise to view this optimistically, and assume a fluid change and maybe swapped solenoids will bring her back to life?
Would it be wise to view this optimistically, and assume a fluid change and maybe swapped solenoids will bring her back to life?
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What is the TV cable actually called? I'll take a look at it in the manual tomorrow while I'm doing stuff.
I got a new filter today just to do the fluid change tomorrow so I'll look around then.
The cold fluid test - so basically check the fluid cold, before starting, and it should read MAX. Then start the jeep and immediately check it again, and it should read ADD, correct?
And if it reads differently, it may be the torque converter?
Thanks for the help so far guys.
I got a new filter today just to do the fluid change tomorrow so I'll look around then.
The cold fluid test - so basically check the fluid cold, before starting, and it should read MAX. Then start the jeep and immediately check it again, and it should read ADD, correct?
And if it reads differently, it may be the torque converter?
Thanks for the help so far guys.
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The cold fluid test - so basically check the fluid cold, before starting, and it should read MAX. Then start the jeep and immediately check it again, and it should read ADD, correct?
And if it reads differently, it may be the torque converter?
Thanks for the help so far guys.
If the Torque Converter is mechanically intact and functioning properly it drives the transmission oil pump. When the transmission has not been operating and the ATF fluid is cold, the oil pan will fill up. When the engine is started the transmission oil pump will pull the pan fluid up and pump it through the transmission. This will cause the fluid level on the dipstick to drop to near the bottom. If the fluid does not drop, the Torque Converter is not driving the transmission oil pump effectively, or not at all.
If the Torque Converter is making noises and the Jeep does not move this test is a good indicator of a failed Torque Converter.
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If the Torque Converter is mechanically intact and functioning properly it drives the transmission oil pump. When the transmission has not been operating and the ATF fluid is cold, the oil pan will fill up. When the engine is started the transmission oil pump will pull the pan fluid up and pump it through the transmission. This will cause the fluid level on the dipstick to drop to near the bottom. If the fluid does not drop, the Torque Converter is not driving the transmission oil pump effectively, or not at all.
If the Torque Converter is making noises and the Jeep does not move this test is a good indicator of a failed Torque Converter.
If the Torque Converter is making noises and the Jeep does not move this test is a good indicator of a failed Torque Converter.
So I just went out and performed that test.. right off my transmission fluid is high, but there was definitely a drop in the level between between running and not running cold.
Also... I took it for a spin around the parking lot, and it's driving just like normal. Has power and is moving through all the gears.
Should I be optimistic about these solenoids and a fluid/filter change?
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Right on. I worded my response strangely but I understand what you're saying.
So I just went out and performed that test.. right off my transmission fluid is high, but there was definitely a drop in the level between between running and not running cold.
Also... I took it for a spin around the parking lot, and it's driving just like normal. Has power and is moving through all the gears.
Should I be optimistic about these solenoids and a fluid/filter change?
So I just went out and performed that test.. right off my transmission fluid is high, but there was definitely a drop in the level between between running and not running cold.
Also... I took it for a spin around the parking lot, and it's driving just like normal. Has power and is moving through all the gears.
Should I be optimistic about these solenoids and a fluid/filter change?
Run it to destruction, then replace parts. :-)
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Haha I already have a bad habit of doing that. That's how I found myself in this spot.
The only problem is that it has power and is running now, but once it warms up, it seems to shift back into neutral until it cools down.
That's why I'm hoping the fluid/filter change and possibility the solenoid swap (if they test bad) will fix things.
The only problem is that it has power and is running now, but once it warms up, it seems to shift back into neutral until it cools down.
That's why I'm hoping the fluid/filter change and possibility the solenoid swap (if they test bad) will fix things.